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Most people notice a few gray strands over time, and going gray is a slow fade rather than an overnight change.
Coverage options vary by hair color: Dark hair may require lowlights or strategically placed highlights, while lighter hair can blend grays with glosses, toners, or subtle highlights. Temporary solutions also exist for short-term coverage.
Gray hair can feel coarser or drier due to reduced pigment and oil production, making hydration and treatments like masks or keratin key to maintaining healthy, smooth hair.
Finding your first gray hair is, undeniably, a universally shocking experience. Whether, like me, you met your new silver discovery with a touch of fascination or you just felt pure horror, it’s rarely something people feel neutral about. “Finding a gray utility (especially for the first time) can be a confronting moment,” says Tom Smith, founder of AEVUM hair salon and Cosmo contributing hair expert, adding, “there is so much stigma around gray hair and aging.”
Nowadays, going gray has a lot less shame around it than when I was growing up in the 00s. The narrative back then was that losing you hair color was a telltale sign of aging, and it had to be rectified immediately by your colorist or at home in the bathroom with a box of hair dye. And now we have gray icons like Andie Macdowell to look to and model/influencer icon, Mia Maugé, but we still have a long way to go, especially when prominent gray men are still being branded as silver foxes while women who embrace their grays are seen as ‘brave’.
If you want to cover your grays and you’re not ready for the color change, that is completely understandable—and we have tips for this below. Equally, if you feel like you want to learn how to transition into your gray hair era and embrace it, that is amazing and should be celebrated, too. Either way, we want you to be as informed as possible for your best hair ever, so we spoke to some of our favorite experts to compile your guide to going gray.
The rate of graying:
Just to be clear, everyone grays at a different rate, but it’s uncommon to find one gray hair and then go completely gray soon after. Samantha Cusickfounder of Stã Studios and also a Cosmo contributing hair expert, says that “One or two grays don’t mean your hair is suddenly turning silver overnight. Hair goes gray gradually as pigment cells in the follicles slow down. Some people notice a few early strands that stay isolated for years. It’s more of a slow fade than a quick switch.” This has been my experience. I found my first gray hair at 29, and now, age 33, I still only have a handful of white strands. With my deep brown/black hair, the strands look stark against the rest of my hair, but they are so few that you can barely notice them hidden among the rest.
Filippo Fortis
Covering grays on dark hair:
If you want to cover up your grays permanently, there are options, even if you have darker hair. That said, the deeper your natural color, the trickier it can be. “In darker hair, it can be trickier to disguise the odd gray due to the high contrast and therefore more noticeable effect of the gray strands,” says Smith. You can consider painting dye just on the areas that are gray or adding low lights to reduce the ratio of gray to dark hair. It can also be a clever trick to add brighter highlights to dark hair, which can draw the eye away from the grays and stop them from looking so stark or obvious. Bright highlights on a dark base require a skilled hand and experienced colorist to do well, though. Consult your hair colorist on the best option for you. It’s also key to really think about the commitment of a new color service and if it’s something you can afford to spend time and money on long-term.
Covering grays on lighter hair:
Lighter, blonder hair blends with grays more easily, meaning less work to disguise the look. “Ask your colorist about a gloss or toner to softly blend the grays into your natural shade. A few lighter, face-framing highlights can also work wonders as they break up the contrast so the grays feel intentional, not obvious. I love using Redken Shades EQ to melt those tones together for a seamless finish,” says Cusick.
Temporarily covering grays:
Not sure you want to commit to a color service for your gray hair? There are a bunch of options to just hide them until your next hair wash if you want. We love these three options:
Color Wow Root Cover Up
Magic Retouch Instant Root Concealer Spray
Root Touch-Up Temporary Concealing Powder
Will your hair texture change when you go gray?
“Yes, it often does,” says Cusick. “As pigment production slows, so does oil production, which can make gray hair feel coarser or drier. It’s not damaged, it’s just different. Hydration is key here.” She advises regular at-home treatments to help with hydration, and Smith recommends a keratin treatment if smoothness is an issue.
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