A crisp chill in the air marks the start of sew-in season. This extension method involves sewing tracks of hair onto braided patterns close to the scalp, and it’s long been a go-to for added length and volume. Sew-ins also let you experiment without commitment. Want highlights but not bleach? Ask your stylist to add a few colored tracks. “Sew-ins give people the option to explore and play around with hair color,” veteran hairstylist Jamal Edmonds says.
There are many types of sew-ins—some rooted in traditional techniques, others achieved with creative twists. Want to know which one is right for you? We tapped experts to break down the different types of sew-ins and how to enjoy the look while keeping your natural hair thriving.
Traditional Sew-In
A traditional sew-in features either a beehive or straight-back braiding pattern, into which extensions are sewn to completely cover the natural hair. The style can include a middle or side part that extends to the hairline, or be sewn all the way to the edges and finished with a bang. Because no natural hair is left out, it’s known as a “full” sew-in—and it offers a level of protection other methods don’t. “In terms of a protective style, it’s what is going to protect the hair the most,” Edmonds says.
Still, stylists caution against doing these installations back-to-back. “Don’t put (extensions) back in right away,” warns Brooklyn-based hairstylist Michelle Jones. Sadiku echoes the sentiment, adding, “Your hair needs to rest.”
Partial Sew-In
A partial sew-in involves a traditional sew-in for one part of the hair and an alternative styling method for the other part. For example, you may opt for braids in the front of your hair and sew-in extensions in the back. “You could even do crochet in the front (and) sew-in in the back,” editorial hairstylist T. Cooper adds. “There are so many different options.”
Partial sew-ins can be parted in different directions as well. “Many talented artists are also able to add multiple parts, including a center or deep side part,” celebrity hairstylist Monae Everett explains.
However, be mindful of the maintenance requirements associated with this look. “There is a lot of blending that needs to be done because you’re leaving so much (hair) out,” hairstylist Tinika Sadiku says. Jones adds, “If you are working out, you’re gonna have that reversion on your natural texture.”
Frontal Sew-In
Frontals first gained popularity in Hollywood, even they held up under bright lights. They are immensely versatile, allowing for a variety of styles and parting directions so you can personalize your look. Most often, they’re used to close the front of a sew-in without leaving any natural hair exposed.
Sitting on top of the hair, the lace is typically attached with glue. However, caution is key during installation and removal. The tension created when the frontal shifts back and forth—even slightly—can cause damage. “The lace in the frontal, no matter how incredible it is, will rub against your hairline,” Sadiku says. “Anything you’re doing that puts excessive tension on one area of your hair requires that your hair is strong enough to deal with that.”
The glue is another area of concern. “The glue from these is eating our hair and destroying our skin,” Sadiku warns. Jones echoes this warning: “(The glue is) a little harsh on the hairline.” “It’s sad to see so many losing their hairline.”
For those who like to scratch or comb between tracks, frontals can be especially risky. “Make sure you’re not stabbing yourself with a metal comb underneath the forehead, because that too rips out hair,” Sadiku points out.
Sew-In Closure
A closure does not have leave-out either and is parted in only one direction. Unlike a frontal, it is not versatile. Closures close a small gap rather than completely covering the front of the hair. “The frontals are ear-to-ear, and the closure could be a different size, like 2 x 5 or 4 x 6,” Sadiku says. According to our experts, the smaller the closure, the more natural the look.
Jones is not a fan of the technique. “I don’t really recommend the closures,” she says, noting that she does not like the impact they have on the natural hair underneath. “When something is constantly resting, pulling, that’s what’s causing the damage,” she explains.
A growing trend is installing a closure right behind the hairline for a natural finish. While aesthetically appealing, this placement increases the risk of friction-related breakage.
Versatile Sew-In
As the name suggests, a versatile sew-in offers multiple styling options, from ponytails and buns to updos, with the freedom to switch between middle and side parts. Those who enjoy changing their look frequently will appreciate this method. “Some people like to wear center parts, and then they like to wear side parts, or sometimes they like to wear a deep side partso they’re able to switch it up in that way,” licensed cosmetologist Cataanda James says.
She recommends this option if you want to achieve the popular half-up, half-down style. “If you want to put your hair half up and half down, definitely get (a versatile sew-in),” she adds. “You don’t want to be able to see the track, so that’s where the versatility comes into play.”
Since this style often involves leave-out, choosing hair that mimics your own natural texture can make maintenance easier. “(This method is) best for those who are wearing curlier textures that actually match their hair texture perfectly,” James says.
As for hair care products to use, Cooper strongly advises using a heat protectant every time you style your sew-in. “I like (to use a) protective serum, especially when I’m doing women with texture,” she says. She says a serum outshines liquid options because: “Yes, you’re going to get the heat protection, but a lot of times if they have texture, (a liquid is) going to revert (their hair) a little bit and then you’re going to have to put more heat on it.”
Cooper also appreciates solid heat protectants. “Those are also nice to lay their hair down,” she adds.
Hybrid Sew-In
A hybrid sew-in combines a traditional sew-in with another extension technique, like a k-tip or tape-in. “If I want to switch it up, I’ll do a partial sew-in in the back with plug-ins hrs k-types in the front for a seamless and versatile finish,” Everett says, offering a personal example.
However, Edmonds says this option is not compatible with certain lifestyles. “If they work out multiple times a week, some of those hybrid sew-ins aren’t the best, because you still have some of your hair out,” he says.
It can be tempting to touch up your leave-out frequently to ensure it’s bone straight, but salon owner and master stylist Char Wilson warns against that. “I want clients to know if you properly maintain your hair (and) wrap it up, you don’t need to flat iron it every day,” she says.
Skip Track Sew-In
A skip track sew-in is a type of sew-in that features fewer braids, spaced further apart. It adds drama to a simpler style, like a silk press with a few tracks of extensions. Everett explained that this style is “great for ponytails or half-up looks.”
The majority of the hair is left out in these looks. They are meant to enhance one’s hair, not supplement or protect it. It “skips” the bulk of the braids from a traditional sew-in. According to Sadiku, it adds “a little extra bit of thickness and volume” and is ideal for someone “using quality hair that mimics their texture.”
James recommends it for those with a “finer texture” who like to play with their style and want to add a bit of density.
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